This walks follows an itinerary that for 15 years, while the civil war raged in Lebanon, was impossible to do. For 15 years, Beirut was a divided city. One half - the East - was Christian, the West was Muslim. There were few crossings between the two sides, many under the control of snipers and therefore deadly. This walk resurrects the story of the war and the areas most affected by it in Beirut but it also showcases the many, many layers the city has. Beirut is over 5000 years old. Anywhere you dig, you will find something historically significant. Along this route you will get an idea of the city a hundred years ago, of the damage caused by the civil war and the reconstruction period when many structures that survived were torn down. You will also get to know some historical and not so historical landmarks, such as Martyr's Square, the Egg, Beit Beirut or Falafel Sahyoun. And because the past and the war are omnipresent and Lebanon is a most nostalgic country, I will also tell you of places that don't exist anymore. But since they remain in the memories of many people, I think you should know about them too.