If you love architecture, San Francisco’s most surprising landscape may be the historic Financial District. From afar it looks like a thicket of towers — but once you look closely, you'll discover a neighborhood inhabited by gargoyles and walruses where redwood trees hug an 850-foot pyramid, past collides with present, and busy streets pass by an alleyway lined with outdoor cafes. I'm John King, the [San Francisco Chronicle's](https://www.sfchronicle.com/) urban design critic, and I’ve been writing about the city’s architecture and public spaces for the past 20 years. I never walk through the Financial District without noticing something new that I want to tell people about, and the sights here are even more fascinating when you know the stories behind them – from political deals to famous tenants to the hidden clues that show how the district has evolved. Here are a few examples of what you’ll encounter on this tour: • The identity of shrouded sculptures that look down on San Francisco's famous cable cars • An ornate office building that's only 20 feet wide • A 20-story metal high-rise perched atop two classical banks • Stunning art deco lobbies • Why everybody was wrong about the Transamerica Pyramid • The office of fictional detective Sam Spade If you’re a new visitor to San Francisco, this tour is a revelation. And if you’re a long-time resident? I promise fresh discoveries as well. The route is compact, and lasts about an hour. But with plenty of plazas and cafes along the way, you can linger as long as you want.